Screw lock, for infrequent use.
A simple locking system by screwing up the barrel on the karabiner’s gate. The gate is unlocked by unscrewing the barrel.
Autolocking triple action closure for frequent use. 3-step opening of the karabiner’s gate with fast, autolocking closure. Accidental opening of the gate is prevented.
Twin Gate is a revolutionary concept for locking a karabiner, patented by Grivel/Simond. It is incredibly simple and can be worked using just one hand. Unintentional opening is nearly impossible. In addition, the locking mechanism cannot become jammed.
2 versions are available:
There are two types of belay devices: ones where the rope runs directly through the device (figure 8, assisted braking device with cam…) and those which are used in conjunction with a dedicated karabiner through which one or more ropes slide (tubes, stitch plates,…).
The first type requires an asymmetric karabiner to position the device correctly at all times.
The second type, where the ropes run through the karabiner, should never be used with asymmetric karabiners as they may wear ropes prematurely when abseiling or may hinder giving slack (see diagram).
A pear shaped symmetric karabiner should thus be used to accommodate one or two ropes.
At a stance, you can also clip in with a dynamic rope lanyard. This does not require the use of a HMS karabiner. In this situation an asymmetric karabiner is used which can easily be positioned at the end of the lanyard and clipped into the anchor point.
A large symmetric HMS karabiner is indispensable when using an Italian hitch to belay your seconds. Its size allows the Italian hitch to invert and work in both directions.
The appropriate karabiner size is dependent on the type of rope used (single, double or twin). The broadest end of the karabiner is rounded off to optimise braking without abrading the rope. This karabiner’s shape also allows it to be clipped into a belay using a clove hitch.
Avoid using the widest end of the karabiner -intended for the ropes- to connect to a belay’s anchor point because hard steel pitons and hangers can burr the softer alloy. Nicks and burrs will damage your rope.